Showing the continuing work to this non-adjuster blade.
Work on the blades recommences now that they are back from hardening.
This picture shows one of the many grinding operations.
Even the snecks have to be ground on one surface before they are assembled.
Picture shows blade ready to have the sneck assembled
Note the rivets are pressed instead of peining as this expands the rivet through the whole of its length and also pulls the two parts tighter together. This is not always the case with peining.
The blade after pressing the integral rivets into place.
Removing the excess material from the sneck as it is no longer required for work holding.
Sneck can now be formed.
The excess material on rivets being removed before final surface grinding.
Once the sneck has been riveted and formed the blade is returned back to the CNC mill to trim the sneck to suit the blade facet.
After much more grinding and polishing the blade is now complete.
Man, oh man, what I wouldn’t do for a surface grinder!
That is an insane amount of work for a distinctly minor bit of the tool…
Superb.
B
Comment by Black — October 24, 2011 @ 3:48 pm
Distinctly minor ????
Comment by admin — October 24, 2011 @ 6:46 pm
Yes, the sneck on other blades seem to be attached without much care for accuracy, whereas you have applied the same amount of precision normally dedicated to the bed & mouth of planes.
Comment by Black — October 24, 2011 @ 6:50 pm
I also love that big radius cutter. Is that an off the shelf component or a special order?
Comment by Black — October 24, 2011 @ 10:43 pm
Hi Black
The real issue here is that the rivet is integral to the sneck, whereas a loose rivet would be weak and will allow movement then look unsightly. A loose rivet would be more effective in a larger sneck.
k
Comment by admin — October 25, 2011 @ 9:18 am
Hi Black
The cutter, for those that are interested, is a Dormer C700 R=12.5 HSCo corner radiusing cutter. It is an off the shelf component but not widely available and cost about £200. I know because I have just had to order one!
It is the only cutter of this of any quality with 20 mm shank (this is partly why it is so expensive, a 25mm shank would be less than half this price. Anyone contemplating purchasing a milling machine I would strongly recommend it has nothing smaller than a 40 international spindle).
k
Comment by admin — October 25, 2011 @ 9:22 am
Hi Karl,
Now here’s a thought !
Why not buy the tool steel in a much thicker grade cut through the billet diagonally yielding 2 wedge shapes. then mill down to flat leaving the rear end for machining and forming the sneck. Send for hardening and once returned do the bizzo with the surface grinder and well there you have it !
No rivets, Integral sneck ?
Best wishes,
Archie.
Comment by Archie — October 26, 2011 @ 7:27 pm
Hi Archie
There is a short reply and a long reply but I am having a day off today so it is the short one!
Certainly not practical and you are thinking like a woodworker! In my workshop I have a very good bow saw and to make this kind of cut I would require a purpose made fixture and then the cut itself would take an extremely long time. I would only be saving a few extra ounces of steel.
It would be nice to make it out of a solid bar but there would still be a large amount of milling and I would have to make it a cross grind on top. I might come back to this idea at a later date.
Don’t write the riveting off because as you can see they are integral with the sneck. The fact that they are riveted over on the underside of the blade whilst the sneck block is still square enables me to use the fly press which does a lot more than just peining the end of the rivet. It swells the whole of the rivet making it extremely tight in its bore. This is about as good as it gets. It allows me to concentrate on the finish and texture of the blade.
k
Comment by admin — October 27, 2011 @ 9:45 am
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